What is a budget Botswana safari experience really like?

Harriet's firsthand account of her recent Botswana Safari experience will give you a clear idea of what a Budget Lodge Safari in Botswana is like. Her candid report back offers a realistic and balanced view of what the small group safari experience was like. And, she also offers some helpful safari tips and African travel advice along the way...

A Budget Lodge Safari in Botswana: first-hand

I was happy to return to Botswana in December, after a long absence. This time for an overland safari from Kasane to Maun.

I joined a fully-inclusive small group lodge safari which provides more comfort and exclusivity than overland and camping trips. During our 5-day adventure, we explored the Chobe River and Savuti areas of Chobe National Park and the Khwai region of the Okavango Delta. Chobe and the Okavango Delta being two of Botswana's best safari destinations.

Getting there: Cape Town to Kasane via Johannesburg

I flew from Cape Town to Kasane via Johannesburg arriving in the early afternoon with two other members of the group. Kasane's airport is small so after completing the immigration formalities we found our guide easily in the arrivals hall.

TRAVEL TIP:

Set aside time to get your luggage wrapped if you are flying to Johannesburg. The regulations for soft bags at OR Tambo International Airport have recently changed making this necessary. I had my bag wrapped at Cape Town International.

To Chobe Elephant Camp!

The journey from Kasane to Chobe Elephant Camp takes about an hour. This includes transit time on the tarmac road through Chobe National Park. Chobe Elephant Camp is located on a ridge overlooking the Chobe River floodplains. Arriving at the eco-friendly safari lodge, we were warmly welcomed by the staff who sang and handed out refreshing cold towels and fruit drinks.

After settling in and enjoying high tea at the lodge we set off on a short game drive outside Chobe National Park. Even though the game drive was not inside the national park we saw plenty of antelope and a range of birds. En route, we stopped to enjoy sundowners overlooking both Botswana and Namibia. Then, on the way back to the lodge we were lucky enough to catch sight of a leopard crossing the road! We got to watch her briefly before she disappeared into the vegetation.

Back at the lodge, we were presented with a delicious dinner before being walked back to our rooms. During the night there was plenty of very welcome rain. This pattern continued throughout our stay - with the heaviest rains falling overnight.

A bit about Chobe Elephant Camp

The entire lodge (chalets and open-plan central area) is constructed out of sandbags filled with red Kalahari sand. The rooms have overhead fans, air-conditioning and a verandah. They also feature indoor and outdoor showers with the bathroom separated from the bedroom by a curtain.

The camp has a swimming pool with a viewing deck. There is no WiFi which makes it a great spot for a digital detox.

The Chobe River Safari & Afternoon Game Drive

After breakfast at Chobe Elephant Camp, we were driven back into Kasane to meet up with the rest of the group. Being Botswana, we spotted a few elephants along the road to town! 

From Kasane, our group set off on a scenic Chobe River safari. The open boat cruise along the Chobe River provided excellent opportunities to see wild animals and birds. As we cruised along our guide showed us the highwater marks on the reeds. It was clear just how low the current water levels were, after the drought last summer.

The boat cruise is a real treat for birders. Even before entering the park, whilst moored at the entrance gate, the bird watchers in our group were especially excited with an excellent sighting of the rare, half-collared kingfisher.

We didn't see any elephants on our boat trip - nature was unpredictable as always. We did, however, see plenty of antelopes and lots of birds. On our way back to the jetty, we saw a dead hippo was thought to have been killed during a fight over territory. Not surprisingly, the dead hippo had attracted a great number of crocodiles. 

In the afternoon we embarked on a game drive in Chobe National Park. We were lucky enough to see herds of impala, which had recently dropped their young and many giraffes. 

We also saw the spoor of a pack of wild dogs. Our game drive ended at a complete bush bar, set up with drinks and snacks, for our sundowners in the bush. After sundowners, we returned to the lodge for another tasty dinner.

SAFARI TIP: 

Pack binoculars and get into the fun of birding!

Camping in Savuti, Chobe

On day three, we hit the road after breakfast. Leaving the Chobe River we drove into the heart of Chobe National Park. En route to the hill-dotted landscape of Savuti, we stopped to visit the Riverside Valley Pre-School and Day Care Centre. It was closed for school holidays so there were no children there, but we were shown around to see how funds, donated by guests staying at Chobe Elephant Camp, had been put to good use.

Soon afterwards we reached the end of the tarmac road, where we stopped to deflate the tyres. And from that point on, the roads were a rollercoaster journey with vast puddles (small lakes) which had to be navigated carefully. During the course of the morning, we stopped for a detailed introduction to our ‘limousine’. This luxury safari vehicle featured USB charging points and fridges under some of the seats, while a trailer carried our luggage, tents and camping equipment. A very well-stocked kitchen was also carried along and put to good use making tea and coffee to accompany our fresh fruit.

On arrival at our campsite in Savuti, we were shown how to pitch our own tents (2.1m x 2.1m x 1.75 bow tents). Once that was done we put our luggage, mattress and sleeping bag inside our tents and set off on a game drive. The camp assistant stayed behind to set up our bush shower and short-drop toilets as the Hospitality and Tourism Association of Botswana (HATAB) campsites have no facilities.

This part of Chobe Park was once submerged in an enormous inland sea. Now it remains dry for most of the year and was just starting to get greener with the onset of the summer rainfall season. After our game drive, we returned to the campsite for showers and a delicious three-course campfire-cooked meal. In the evening we could hear lions nearby which ensured that we all listened very carefully to the safety briefing with instructions for going to the toilet tent during the night.

SAFARI TIPS: 

• Pack a torch and headlamp for finding your way around camp after dark.
• For self-drive travellers: when transitioning from dirt to tarmac and tarmac to dirt roads remember to change your tyre pressure accordingly.

To Khwai Concession & Moremi Game Reserve

On the morning of day four, we struck camp and rolled up our tents. The toilets were filled in and the campfire coals were buried leaving just some disturbed earth to show we had been at the site. En route to our next camp, we saw zebra and giraffe as well as a couple of elephants. Our next stay was at Sango Safari Camp on the border between the Khwai Concession (run by the Khwai Development Trust) and Moremi Game Reserve. 

After a welcome song and cold towels from the staff, we had a meal at camp. Then we were driven to the river for our mokoro trip. Mekoro are the traditional style dug-out canoes used by the locals. This was my first experience of a fibreglass mokoro and once you are on the water it is very peaceful with varied bird sightings.

On our return journey, we stopped for another special sundowner with a dramatic cloudy background. After dinner, we embarked on a short night drive with plenty of opportunities to learn the differences between scrub hares and springhares. We also saw a hyena on guard duty near a den.

SAFARI TRAVEL TIP:

Take only photos and leave only footprints. Be careful not to litter and have a negative impact on the natural environments you visit.

A bit about Sango Safari Camp

Accommodation at Sango Safari Camp is in six permanent tents with an en-suite bathroom – separated from the bedroom by a curtain. Each en-suite has an indoor toilet and basin and outdoor shower.

There is a boma in front of the central area and off to the side of the camp a plunge pool and a game viewing deck. The camp runs on solar power so there are fans but no air-conditioning and no Wi-Fi (more digital detoxing).

Khwai Region of the Delta

After breakfast in the boma around the campfire, we visited Khwai Guest House in Khwai Village. The brick chalets are a cheaper alternative to Sango Safari Camp and although the activities on offer are the same it is run as a guesthouse rather than a safari lodge. This means that there is no high tea and all your drinks need to be paid for locally.

We also visited The Village Day Care Centre supported with donations from guests at both Sango Safari Camp and Khwai Guest House. 

Our game drive took us back to the hyena den where we again saw one adult on guard. This was also the game drive where we managed to see just part of our first, and only lion, of the safari. The lioness was lying down between two trees and it was, therefore, a partial sighting. We stopped for our final roadside lunch, from the truck and trailer, enjoying couscous and carrot salads with cold meats. Then we stopped at Mawana Veterinary Check Point so that the tyres could all be sprayed with disinfectant and we all had to walk through a tray of disinfectant to help prevent the spread of foot and mouth between wild and domestic animals. Soon afterwards our rollercoaster dirt road ended and there was a stop to pump up the tyres where the tarmac started.

SAFARI TIP:

Take stationery or clothing to donate to the kids at the daycare centre and school or consider setting aside a bit of budget for a donation. For more about making a difference on the road see: Responsible Safari: how to travel ethically.

Maun & Mochaba Crossing Lodge

We arrived at Mochaba Crossing Lodge to the start (although we didn’t know it then) of a nearly 24-hour power cut. Power cuts are routine in and around Maun during the rainy season but this one was longer than usual. Accommodation at this lodge is in en-suite rooms and en-suite tents and there are also standard tents and a campsite for self-drive travellers. The lodge has a dining area and bar along with a swimming pool. Even when the power is on there is no Wi-Fi at the lodge. The staff worked miracles producing a tasty dinner and then breakfast all without power.

SAFARI TRAVEL TIP: 

The lodge is mostly used for one pre- or post-safari night but if staying longer there are full-day excursions possible to Moremi (about 1½ hours drive away) for a game drive or to the river (also about 1½ hours drive away) for a mokoro trip.

About this Botswana Safari Experience

This was an action-packed itinerary, on the move every day, but lots of fun. We were extremely well looked after by our safari guide and camp assistant.

This was a lodge safari with one night of camping. The camping night required semi-participation, where the only camp chore that everyone has to do is to pitch and take down their own tent. But, there are plenty of opportunities to help the camp assistant if you want to get more involved.

The safari vehicle is built for practicality and daily seat rotation was enforced to ensure that we all experienced each of the four rows of seats.

Travelling in early December was a good reminder of the heat and humidity of early summer in Botswana, but everyone hopes it remains a summer of good rainfall to balance out the drought of last summer. With the rains having started a few weeks before our visit the animals were widely dispersed. We did, however, see 140+ species of birds in just five days! My binoculars were put to good use and well worth packing.

SAFARI TRAVEL TIPS: 

• If you struggle with heat and humidity, then try to visit northern Botswana before the summer rains or in winter (outside of the rainy season).
• Although we did see large mammals on safari we didn't have that many sightings. If seeing a lot of big game is the most important aspect of going on safari for you, then maybe go on safari in Botswana's winter season or get advice on the best safari destinations to visit in summer.
• It is customary to tip on African safaris. For guidance see our Tips for Tipping on African Safaris - who & how to tip

To see what affordable tour options are available, view our budget Botswana Safaris. 

For help planning a budget safari in Botswana or other African safari destinations (be it a camping, lodge or private safari you're after) get in touch with ABS.