African Safari Update: What’s a safari in Tanzania like right now?

African Safari Update: Find out what to expect on an African Safari in Tanzania during the Covid-19 pandemic.

This is the story of three of our clients who traveled to Tanzania and Rwanda in May 2021. First, they went gorilla trekking in Rwanda's Volcanoes Park, and then they took a Tanzania Safari, traveling via Ethiopia. Below is what these three South African women experienced on their East African travels booked through African Budget Safaris this year.

• See Jenny's feedback on booking with African Budget Safaris.
• Read about their firsthand experience of Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda during Covid-19.

Arriving in Tanzania

We entered Tanzania through Dar es Salaam along with approximately 280 other people on board Ethiopia Airlines. Each of us anxiously clutching our passports and Covid results. The three of us were tired of planes and built-up places and super ready to take on the expanse and wide, wild open spaces promised to us from our Tanzania Safari itinerary. 

As we entered the airport building, we joined the rest of the passages queuing to... "This way please, Covid test please"... Oh no! ... "No, here we are, we're negative that's how we managed to get on the plane to get here"... "look here" resonated from everyone. Even another South African, flaunting his Lancet Lab results tried and then us "here, please see these, they are printed on Rwanda Government Official stationary and performed by a state of the arts Rwandan Laboratory" trying hard to convince them positively of our negative status.

But, it was not to be. $25 and a smear of our throats and our 'official' Tanzania results were presented to us on a square piece of white paper, torn out of a book, the same size of a post-it pad note with a number, your first name only and "-ve" written on it... and we were through!! Wow, we almost felt robbed, but what the hell, that was short-lived, as gratitude for our Tanzania official Covid status, quickly took over. Tanzania Experience was there to meet us and we were delivered to Meru View Lodge, set in a quiet little corner on top of a hill in Arusha town.

Tarangire Safari in Tanzania

Tarangire National Park sign

The following morning, after breakfast, Justine from Tanzania Experience met with us and briefed us on our itinerary, protocol and procedures then handed us over to Max our guide for the duration of our stay.

We travelled to Tarangire National Park, passing through towns hosting hundreds of thousands of motorcycle taxis. 

Motorbike taxis in Tanzania

Max explained that many young men were unemployed and the government encouraged them to become motorcycle taxi operators. They have taken it to the limits! Most of them even have umbrellas with extensions to cover their passengers.

Motorcycle taxis en route to Tarangire Park

Out of the town, we started appreciating the wide and vast lands. We passed many kilometres of Maasai homelands, but more about them later. Just before we entered the park we noticed baobab trees. Max laughed and said "yes, you are now saying "look baobab" and soon you will not say anything as you will see many!" Yes, Tanzania is full of baobabs and each with its own uniqueness. In fact, Tanzania has many different trees. 

Baobab Tree en route Tarangire Safari

The park was lush and also wet from seasonal rain and we saw plenty of birds and game.

Tarangire Park scenery, Tanzania

Lunch was a picnic at a look-out point over Tarangire river, watching elephants in the distance and secretively sharing titbits with hornbills and buffalo weavers who hadn't seen many visitors for a while due to Covid.

Picnic stop on Tanzania safari

Tarangire River stop, Tanzania

Tarangire safari - birdlife

Max our guide timed it perfectly right to move on. We headed towards where the elephants were and parked close by. It wasn't long before they started moving. They passed the vehicle so closely (could have stretched out my hand and touched them) in front and behind barely looking at us, ignoring the clicking of our cameras but fully aware of our presence.

Tarangire Safari - elephant

Tanzania Safari - elephants in Tarangire

We moved onto a massive baobab tree in the middle of the park. The centre is hollow and big enough to hold 12 men. 

Massive baobab in Tanzania

Max explained that poachers would bring their catch/es to this tree and hang them inside on iron hooks (which are still there) wait a day or 2 to ensure they hadn't been followed then collect them. Gladly, this is no longer the case as rangers are constantly patrolling and monitoring the park. 

Inside baobab tree, near Tarangire

However, the stench of strong lion urine hangs in the air inside the tree and we were shown paw print of lion and leopard into and out of the hollow and a lion's bed just outside the entrance. It didn't take much encouragement for us to quickly return to the safety of the vehicle. 

Lion bed at baobab tree, Tarangire area

We soon discovered that mosquitoes are not a problem when travelling in a safari vehicle with the roof lifted. The wind blows your hair and you are able to easily capture pictures without window reflection, but... don't underestimate the tenacity of tsetse flies. They wanted to take every opportunity to feast on human blood. It was like they feared another Covid lockdown and no visitors, very much like us South African's fear liquor/bottle store closures and feverishly rush out to buy for in case. They flew into the moving vehicle, and stayed in, biting through our clothing or any bare exposed fleshed and I'm damn sure I saw them wearing gas masks because they were relentless, even after we had covered ourselves in tabard and Max had sprayed us and the vehicle with serious repellent. 

It was nearly nightfall as we headed out of the park to our accommodation for the night. None of the parks is fenced. Sangaiwe Tented Lodge is on a side of a koppie, looking over a flat plain and Lake Burunge.

Tented Lodge near Tarangire National Park

Tented lodge setting

Like all accommodation in Rwanda and Tanzania, you are welcomed by staff with refreshments. In this case baobab juice. We were warned not to walk around alone as all animals wander between the tented rooms and the main living area. Armed staff are called to escort you around when moving between tents and main buildings. The rooms are luxurious.

Tarangire tented lodge room

We immediately settled in and ordered Kilimanjaro beers and put our feet up to absorb the view. 

Tented lodge view of Lake Burunge

The food was superb and fresh and you can't help wondering about the operational logistics of managing some of these remote places.

Tented lodge food, Tanzania

Maasai Culture of Tanzania

The next morning saw us heading off towards Serengeti. We passed through small towns and villages and the countryside quickly turned rural as we entered the Maasai territory. You can see them for kilometres. Tanzania encourages them to maintain their culture. Their bright shukas (Maasai blankets) stand out as the men sit around discussing "stories" and tending to their stock (in some cases 200 goats and 100 head of cattle) which mingle with wildlife i.e. wildebeest and zebra.

Maasai in traditional dress, Tanzania

The government have stopped only one cultural item and that is for a young man to graduate to manhood by killing a lion. They encourage them to show manhood by taking a few wives and increasing their livestock numbers. A homestead indicates the number of wives by the number of round mud/grass structures that surround the main central and large mud/grass home (the man's) in the homestead.

Maasai village, Tanzania

Maasai goat herd

The women tend the homes and do everything else. As the man takes on another wife, the wife/wives preceding her build her mud/grass home. Men wear red shukas until they are committed to a woman (or women) and then they may wear other colours. Their staple diet is meat and milk and out of the blue, you'll see some young women selling honey and honey wine on very remote roads. They make their own beaded jewellery worn around their necks and both men and women wear long ornate beaded and shiny earrings.

We had a picnic lunch under a tree in the middle of somewhere and nowhere in Maasai land.

Lunch stop in Serengeti, Tanzania

Max made plunger coffee (every picnic lunch included Max's plunger coffee which became something we all looked forward to the entire trip) and he set the bonnet of the vehicle by using a red Maasai shuka, for a tablecloth and served our lunch.

Tour guide Max making coffee

And as the temperature had dropped we were each given a shuka to wear. They are incredibly warm, and we landed up reaching for them on numerous occasions in the days that followed.

Serengeti Safari lunchstop

Gems of Tanzania, near Ngorongoro Conservation Area

As we approached the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Max asked whether we had heard about Tanzanite. What?! Which girl hasn't dreamt or heard of gems, jewels, superman and Tanzanite? He pointed out the mountains/hills in the distance which are prohibited areas being mined and very soon thereafter pulled up at a lush building.

Art shop gallery near Ngorongoro

Africa Galleria - "Gems - Jewelry - Art", is perfectly located for visitors near the entrances of Lake Manyara Park and the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

They have beautiful pieces of tanzanite set in gold or silver or just as is, cut and polished. There were lots of gorgeous pieces which had my name written all over them, which sadly I had to leave behind as my dollars were already committed... But next time... my dollars will travel with the sole purpose of returning with at least a few of these treasures. They have many interesting wares and cater for everyone's taste. We certainly didn't leave empty-handed though and amongst my purchases was a dedicated blue shuka to wrap firmly around my husband, Nicholas when I got home. As I got into the vehicle Max had a twinkle in his eye and casually said "Awww, you got a blue one to wrap tightly around his neck, hey?"

Serengeti Safari in Tanzania

Entering the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, it was misty and wet so we didn't stop to look over the crater, as our schedule included this item on our return, but continued on, to enter Serengeti Park at Naabi gate.

Serengeti National Park entry gate

The terrain had changed to grasslands with canopy trees and rocky koppies. 

We were welcomed by a male and female lion and literally got as close as 2 meters from them. 

Lions on Serengeti Safari in Tanzania

The Serengeti is so vast and huge one can literally see for "two weeks" and we noticed a typical afternoon storm approaching. The roads are gravel/dirt and there are low-level bridges over some of the rivers and others... well, are crossed by skilful driving and the fact that only 4x4 vehicles are allowed in the park. 

Serengeti Park gravel roads

When the storm caught up it was within minutes of the heaviest downpour that the roads had turned to rivers, and the low-level bridges could not be crossed or seen. We were even more grateful for our safari 4x4 vehicle as we ploughed through mud almost thigh height and skidded and slipped all over what was the road.

Serengeti roads flooded

All the while Max remained calm and made plans of alternate routes. How he stayed on roads, knew where he was going whilst interacting with other guides in safari vehicles on mobile radios, also trying to reach their destinations before nightfall, put women's multitasking to shame.

Then suddenly, the last of the day's sun rays poured through the clouds and the most majestic African sunset guided us on 2 track roads to Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge.

Serengeti safari sunset scene

It is situated on the Kyabartero Hills and it was dark by the time we had made our way to the top. The whole lodge was lit up with garden lamps (specially made steel closed knee hight drums/domes with holes). There is a main living area and the rooms are grass and wood hut structures with cermet painted walls and floor tiles. 

Serengeti Safari lodge

It is an oasis of luxury. They have won multi-international hospitality awards, such as World's Best Hotels, and we were delighted that we would be part of it for 2 nights. 

Guides wait around in the day and night to ensure you move safely between your rooms to dine and return. This was a gentle reminder that we were in a game park and nothing is fenced off... at all!

Serengeti Safari lodge view

Great Migration in Serengeti Park, Tanzania

The next morning, you could sense Max was on a mission and although he was his calm self, there was this air of suspense. We always knew that May was not the time of year, for what the world believes and shares, as the Great Migration but we were well aware that the animals in the Serengeti migrate all year round. At the office entrance to Serengeti, Max had shown us the annual migration patterns. 

In the morning, he explained when and why the wildebeest, zebra and few other animals migrate. How nature gets them to move and why the zebras are slower etc. Basically, it is their instinct that drives them to move to grass with more value, access to water, to bear young and for the young to grow and be a certain age and build up enough strength to move and keep up etc etc. All the while we had the roof up and the front roof cover open and, were capturing plenty of buffalo, giraffe, eland, all kinds of buck and the most incredible birdlife on our cameras. 

Serengeti Safari wildlife, Tanzania

Every now again the mobile radio would buzz to life and guides would talk feverishly between themselves and one could sense we were now moving with purpose. 

We began to notice herds of animals and then the herds get bigger and bigger then suddenly we saw seas of wildebeest and zebra as far as every horizon ... there were hundreds, upon thousands, actually upon millions of animals across the plains. And they were moving! Coming together and all running in the same direction. 

Great Migration in Serengeti

Serengeti Safari, Great Migration

Wildebeest Migration Safari in Serengeti, Tanzania

The wildebeest snorted and grunted. The males were out on the wings of the moving masses, keeping watchful eye on their females and young, then suddenly, they'd dart off ...to fight of course..., with other males which he happened to notice were fighting by bashing heads in the far distance... as he approached them, one would resign and he would enter into the fray and then another male would rush up and take over. How he returned to his family or if he ever does, you can't tell as this goes on and on and on. The noise sounds like a busy city with peak hour traffic.

Nothing prepares you to witness the sight of millions upon millions of moving animals!!

Serengeti Safari in Tanzania, Migration

They leave highways of flattened hoof-trodden pathways about half a kilometre wide and many kilometres long, as they gain ground. The vultures circle above waiting for the trampled or the remains of a lion catch. Hyena and jackals also remain close, not to be outdone of any meals. The zebra lag behind most of the time. 

Great Migration Serengeti Safari

It is emotionally overwhelming to witness. 

Great Wildebeest Migration in Serengeti Park

Great Migration in Tanzania

Apparently, migration movement only happens from early morning to lunchtime. Then almost as if the lunch dong struck midday, calm moves over everything as they all find shade, graze and rest for the remainder of the day. Only to start all over again the following morning in their quest to gain more ground. Ultimately passing into Kenya and then migrating back to Serengeti. This was also our cue to find a spot safe enough for lunch. Not far off down the road Max grabbed his binoculars and peered into the distance.

"Lions," he said......"Where where?" we reacted. The grass was short and there were only 2 lone trees in the direction he was looking and really..... there wasn't anything there!!!! But we knew, nothing on the trip missed Max's eagle eye and in this case, it was a flick of a tail! Leaving the road (loved that vehicle) he approached the trees and sure enough, there they were, in the shade, 2 female lions with big full bellies lying flat on their sides. 

Serengeti Safari lion sighting

One got up and looked us straight in the eye as if to say, "you're lucky we've just eaten.." and dropped down again closer to the tree to rest her head on the trunk and closed her eyes, to slits. You could feel she was still watching us and I'm damn sure she was contemplating how she could get us and save us for her next meal. Fortunately, her tum weighed her down, and moving was definitely an effort.

We returned to Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge in time to laze around the pool, sip on local beers whilst watching the sunset and a storm building up in the far distance whilst taking in the beauty and luxury of the place.

Serengeti tented lodge pool at sunset

Serengeti safari lodge pool

Serengeti safari lodge sundowners

Ngorongoro Crater Safari in Tanzania

The following day we headed out of the Serengeti back to the Ngorongoro Conservation area to visit the Ngorongoro Crater. The crater was caused by a collapsed volcano/caldera, not a meteorite hit. It is 2440m above sea level at the highest ridge and goes down to 1700m and is approximately 304km/sq in size. 

It is a lush environment and full of wildlife because of the abundance of water and grass. 

Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania

Driving down into the crater we used a "paved" road. There are no barriers on the curvy steep route and vehicles scrap past each other as there are no bigger areas to pull over to accommodate oncoming vehicles. And as they do so it feels like one slip of wheel and you over the side. Again, a prayer of thanks for the vehicle and for Max's driving skills. That anxiety is short-lived as you realise you're in the valley of "plenty", safe and mesmerised. 

Here, animals are close together and plentiful because of the abundance of food and water. 

Ngorongoro Crater Safari in Tanzania

Zebras on Ngorongoro Crater safari in Tanzania

It was interesting to find out that the animals also migrate in and out of this area too. Whilst in the crater, low clouds flowed over the hills like table cloths, and the temperature fell quite drastically. We lunched at the Hippo pool draped in the warmth of Max's shukas and then drove around capturing close-ups of animals and birdlife on our cameras. It was late afternoon when we made our way back to the steep curvy entrance route to exit the crater.

Lion on Ngorongoro Crater safari, Tanzania

Ngorongoro Crater elephant on safari, Tanzania

Ngorongoro Crater wildlife

Our final night in Tanzania was booked in at The Farm Lodge. It is situated not far out of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and is on a farm. The lodge is white and thatch and is surrounded by massive old trees and bamboo.

Ngorongoro Crater farm lodge, Tanzania

The lodge rooms are away from the main area and face flowing grassy farming areas. 

Ngorongoro safari lodge view

It had the feel of going back in time and one almost expects horse riders to come trotting up from the lands. The room was large with large poster beds with mosquito netting and fireplaces.

Ngorongoro Crater lodge room

They produce coffee and most meals consist of homegrown produce, superbly cooked and served. Max assured us that we were in no rush to get to the airport the next day and that there was plenty of time to enjoy our surroundings. We took our time over breakfast and looked around the lodge. It is really a very beautiful place to stay.

Ngorongoro farm lodge in Tanzania

Ngorongoro farm lodge setting

Ngorongoro Crater safari lodge

Finally, we started making our way back to Arusha and Kilimanjaro airport with two more planned stops. One was to spend our remaining dollars at African Galleria because we had to pass it en route and the 2nd was to collect local coffee. Yes, you guessed right! The brand Max had served us at each lunch and which he had specially arranged with a buddy from the local coffee farmers for us.

Kilimanjaro Airport

Mount Kilimanjaro view

About Max, their safari guide in Tanzania

It was also extremely difficult for us to say goodbye to Max.

Clients saying goodbye to Max, their guide

He read us like books and soon knew how to tease us with our own nuances. He has an incredible sense of humour and a naughty twinkle in his eye. Max is best described as King-Size. We later learned he is known as "King Max". 

He ensured that we wanted for nothing, preempted our needs and made sure we got treated like royalty, wherever we went.

Max, Tanzania safari guide

He has a great knowledge of Tanzania, all the wildlife parks and their entire contents, from mammals to the tiniest creature and their birdlife. He has a keen interest in almost any subject.

We would like to express our gratitude to Max for making our experience in Tanzania so special and unforgettable and commend him on the service he gave us. He really goes beyond the call of duty. 

Max, private safari guide in Tanzania

We would also like you to please convey to Tanzania Experience that they can be extremely proud and fortunate to have such a dedicated person like Max in their service and feel absolutely confident to put him with any visitors.

To sum it all up

It is a privilege to travel in Africa and it leaves you with far more than pictures to keep. It leaves you with deep life lessons and experiences. Stepping out in faith and trusting that everything would go according to schedule and that everyone involved would ensure our expectations were met, was just one of the lessons.

We weren't let down anywhere or at any time along the way.

Trusting God to travel through Covid-19 and going at the "correct time" was a leap of faith. His timing was perfect, Covid-19 safety protocols, procedures, and regulations were applied throughout the trip, and looking back one wonders why we were anxious about it at all.

In fact, for the entire duration of this trip, we received only the best service because everybody went beyond the call of duty to make our trip unforgettable. We will always look back in awe, admiration, and gratitude to you all for making it happen.

Private Tanzania Safari

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A Note About Travelling from Rwanda to Tanzania via Ethiopia

I'm especially mentioning Ethiopia because the overnight plan caused some anxiety. Would this happen? How would they know we are the ones that need to get to the hotel. It sounded (and the paperwork too), so vague i.e. there was no real voucher etc. Please remember this got slotted into our itinerary purely because Ethiopian Airlines cancelled our initial flight from Kigali to Addis to Kilimanjaro and refunded us that portion. 

They gave us an overnight stay and sent us to Dar es Salaam and then on to Kilimanjaro. Well... Actually whilst on the plane, there is an option to watch documentaries and I watched an item about the Ethiopian countryside. It opened my eyes to the actual beauty of the country and certainly ignited an interest to maybe visit them sometime. 

Addis is an interesting airport. You pass through many checkpoints. Just when you think it's safe to put all your clothes and shoes back on, you're at another scanning point and everything is off again. They touch you/spritz you everywhere, I mean everywhere! If they were a lover, it would leave nothing to the imagination!! Direct and to the point and sadly you eventually look forward to it, to ensure you qualify for entry or exit to, or from, the country. Or was that my age showing!! They didn't let us down, there were guides everywhere in the airport... "Overnighting?"  they called, "this way please" and so like sheep or should I say goats we followed. The designated hotel name was called.."Debre Damo...this way please".  Out to the parking lot and into a Quantum and off we went. We passed through the city. 

Addis Ababa Ethiopia transfer

Ethiopia is an equal mix of extreme wealth and extreme poverty. The wealthy have high-rise buildings with plenty of gold, glister, chandeliers, and lights. And yet the poorest of poor are on their doorstep or next door in filth and squalor!! 

Addis Ababa city

The hotel food was good and the beds were comfortable and they were ready for us for breakfast. We ensured we were the first to get into the Quantum to get to the airport to catch our plane to Dar es Salaam the next morning. Wifi connections weren't so good and the time had moved forward by an hour and there was no way we were going to miss our connection, due to overlooking or anticipating the correct time.

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Email feedback from our client Jenny

Dearest Claire and Bron,

This trip landed up being much more than a bucket-list wish and dream. It landed up being a trip of hope, trust, faith, awe and admiration, plus, topped to the brim and overflowing with plenty of love.

It all started many years ago when voicing your bucket list was not only fashionable but "making a statement about yourself". "I want to see the gorillas" I would say and many would ooh and aah but deep down I knew this wish was not going to materialise unless I "put my money where my mouth was" and so I started putting away, a little, every month.

As the savings grew I started to search the internet for travel agents that could meet our expectations.  I mention, our, as initially there were more than 8 of us fired up and definitely "in for the adventure".  Agent after agent with beautiful websites offering and promising much more "than your wildest imagination" holidays, quoted electronically all what they believed would be better and safer, for you to do whilst travelling in Africa, without taking any heed or really hearing what we wanted to do. Again and again, the quotes and emails came as packages and I really began to believe the trip would remain just that, a dream.

Until... I called African Budget Safari and you, Claire took my call. You allowed me to speak and before I knew it, things were coming together exactly as and how we discussed. 

Nothing was too much, things were grouped and where savings could be made, you initiated them.

Then... it was time to make deposits and pay for tickets!!! Sherbet! my accountant brain and gut were not ready for that...what if?? What if, African Budget Safari was a hoax and were just waiting for payment then would evaporate into thin air like mist!!!  How was I going to prove that you were living souls and a reputable organisation that delivered on brief? With much prayer, guidance and trust we deposited our funds and the journey of faith started and even included a delay due to Covid-19, right up until we boarded the plane on 4 May and into the days that followed.

Added to the above was the fear of travelling during Covid-19.  Fear of being tested positive in a foreign country and the thoughts of logistics and costs nearly resulted in us cancelling the entire trip a few times.  Luckily that too was overcome.

Thank you, thank you, and thank you again to both of you for helping to make it happen.

Claire, for all your help initially, setting the path and understanding what we wanted to do, keeping us abreast of info and changes right up to when you took maternity leave. Bronwyn, for stepping in and up and ensuring things stayed in place, chasing up on changes so that the critical items would not be affected. 

Then you both prompted and guided us on what to expect whilst travelling during Covid-19. And even whilst on the trip, you followed up on us and assisted us with completing locater online forms etc. Everything was done with such calmness and reassurance. 

The service we received from start to finish was incredible, friendly and professional and can only be highly commended. African Budget Safari is truly blessed to have you both on their staff.

With much love,
Jenny

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Dear Jenny, Nydia-Lee & Ileen,

THANK YOU for taking the leap of faith and trusting us with your travel arrangements during the Covid-19 pandemic. 

We are delighted that your trip was a success and that we were able to help. Especially, at this time when our local tour operators and economies are in dire need of the support tourism brings.

We also want to thank you for sharing your Tanzania Safari experience so that others can see what to expect when travelling to Tanzania and Africa during Covid-19.

It was a great pleasure and privilege to play a role in your journey. We hope to welcome you back on another African adventure again one day!

- Claire, Bron and the rest of us at African Budget Safaris

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• Read about their experience Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda this May.

Clients Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda

This is the Tanzania Safari that Jenny and her travel companions did as a private tour: Tarangire, Serengeti & Ngorongoro Tanzania Lodge Safari

Their Rwanda Gorilla Trekking Safari was based on this Rwanda Gorilla Trekking & Primate Tracking Tour itinerary that visits both Volcanoes National Park and Nyungwe Forest National Park. See what their Rwanda gorilla trekking safari during Covid (in May 2021) was like here: What’s it like to go Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda right now?

Contact us at African Budget Safaris to arrange a private safari at an affordable price. Our friendly safari experts are here to help you experience the best African safari on a budget. Get professional assistance with planning, customizing, and booking your African safari today at no extra charge.

• Browse our Northern Safari Circuit Safaris to Tanzania 

More African Safari Travel Updates

Jenny's feedback and photos from the Rwanda Gorilla Trekking Safari she did in a group of 3 women in May 2021: What’s it like to go Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda right now?

• Chris and Kayla's Tanzania Safari photos (including tree-climbing lions in Lake Manyara Park) from July 2021

• Chris and Kayla's Serengeti Safari photos (plenty of amazing Great Migration Safari images) from July 2021

For more African Safari Updates and Photos subscribe here.