Come with Claire on her Kenya safari from the urban wildlife of Nairobi National Park to the pink flamingo flocks of Lake Nakuru. Kenya offers far more than just the Big Five, and this diary will guide you through the diverse landscapes and unforgettable wildlife sightings that make a Kenya safari truly exceptional.
Join me as I recount my 12-day Kenya Wildlife Safari exploration, an adventure filled with breathtaking scenery, cultural intrigue, and the thrill of wildlife encounters.
Kenya is a land of contrasts, from the bustling city of Nairobi to the vast plains of the Masai Mara and the rugged landscapes of Samburu. Each region offers a unique and unforgettable safari experience. The wildlife is abundant, the landscapes breathtaking, and the people warm and welcoming. It's a place that will capture your heart and leave you longing to return.
Arriving at 07h00 in Nairobi meant I had a full day to recover from the red-eye flight with very little sleep. Anthony, our friendly driver for the day, welcomed me warmly.
Before leaving the airport, I got a local SIM to keep in close contact with my family.
That was easy and only cost around US $10 for 10 gigs of data. It was, however, too early to check in, so we wove our way through the streets of Nairobi, an impressive city compared to a few neighbours, and stopped to sit at a coffee shop, where we met up with our wonderful hosts, Joyce and Monica, who had arranged the trip for our group of travel advisors and enjoyed some fine Kenyan coffee with breakfast.
I was taken to their headquarters, the heart and soul of our operations, to get a feel for where all the magic happens… and it certainly does! It was great to meet the operations crew that works with me (and fellow travel advisors) to finely craft each safari itinerary and ensure clients have a seamless Kenya safari experience.
Now able to check into my hotel, I was taken to the Sarova Panafric and treated to a relaxing massage in their spa before taking some time to catch up on work and meet the rest of our group, who arrived later that afternoon. We decided to take an evening stroll in the city to get a feel for it. Even though it was rush hour, the people's warmth, friendliness, and willingness to make you feel at home shone through.
It was fascinating to pass by an old colonial church built in 1900 and meander through Uhuru Park (Uhuru meaning freedom) with its rolling lawns, indigenous trees, black kites (a bird of prey) flying overhead, and people walking home—a sanctuary in the city. Finally, with the group together for the next 12 days, we sat down to a delightful dinner at our hotel and went to bed.
An early start today to get to Nairobi National Park for a morning game drive and ensure we have time for all our city excursions.
Our departure from the city, with packed breakfasts, saw us battling the morning traffic, an experience all on its own! Kenya's capital city is busy, and the public transport by local bus is amusing to watch as each bus is painted differently, some dolled up to the 9's with colourful lights and entertaining imagery. Once on the expressway, it was only a 30-minute drive to the park.
After a special briefing by a park ranger, we set off on our first safari in the city, and it delivered incredible sightings. Juxtaposed with the city skyline is an expansive wildlife retreat, the first national park in Kenya, founded in 1946.
Our very first sighting was a young lioness calling for her pride, sauntering through the tall grass and jumping up onto the concrete slab dedicated to offering park directions. She stood there, looking beyond the vehicles parked around her to admire her beauty. She posed so perfectly and began calling again before sitting down to consider where her pride may be.
We adored our first sighting and continued for about 2 hours, collecting many other sightings, such as more rhinos than I had seen before.
Feeling quite pleased with our Nairobi safari, we visited the orphaned elephants at the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. This is an excursion not to be missed; we felt our support towards their conservation was so beneficial, and watching the babies come to drink milk from their bottles was most rewarding while their keeper recounted the tales of their past and each story of how they were abandoned many due to human interference or drought-related tragedies. We came to appreciate this conservation effort so much more, and the photo opportunities are endless and adorable.
Next, a quick stop to feed the Rothschild giraffes at the famous Giraffe Manor's Giraffe Centre! What fun. It's always time for a giraffe selfie.
We ended the day with two more visits, the Bomas of Kenya and Karen Blixen Museum, for a glimpse into culture and history. It is highly recommended if time allows. The Bomas put on a song and dance of most traditional tribes and allowed us to join in, which was quite entertaining. We got to see various homesteads, which would naturally be built and preserved in a museum to ensure that the local children in this modern day can learn about their heritage and culture.
Karen Blixen is famous for Out of Africa, and her story lives strong in her home, now a museum, which is a fascinating account of history and a beautiful story. Back to the Sarova Panafric to freshen up and have a dinner experience at the Carnivore Restaurant, a carnivore's delight if you like to taste different meats.
With a good cuppa coffee and delicious breakfast, plus a packed lunch, we met with our tour guide, Jimmy, for a briefing and departed the bustling streets of Nairobi. Heading south for Amboseli, we looked forward to seeing the iconic views of Kilimanjaro as the backdrop to elephants in the foreground.
The drive is long, and the roads are busy with trucks, so I may suggest a flight to meet your guide at the airstrip in the park, just to add something fun and different to your itinerary, which will have a lot of driving throughout. Passing the quaint villages, filled with colour and interesting things to look at, we made it to our camp in good time.
Although the drive was long, I will never forget the first sighting of snowcapped Kilimanjaro en route.
After checking into the Amboseli Kibo Lodge, we embarked on our evening safari in Big 5 territory, an elephant lover's paradise. We were instantly met by vast herds of elephants and, shortly after, the famed backdrop of Kilimanjaro while these gentle giants enjoyed their evening meal… It was love at first sight!
Amboseli, with its shimmering mirages and open plains, beautifully showcases elephants in front of Mount Kilimanjaro. The park's ecosystem, nourished by the mountain's melting snow, supports diverse wildlife. The elephants disturb the alkaline soils, creating a hazy atmosphere that enhances the park's mystical charm.
We spent our days marvelling at the sheer number of elephants, their social interactions, and the way they seemed to effortlessly navigate the landscape. The birdlife was also exceptional, with flocks of flamingos and other waterbirds dotting the seasonal lakes. The sunsets, painting the sky in vibrant hues, were the perfect end to each day in this magical place.
Amboseli did not disappoint for the two days we were fortunate to be there. Teeming with wildlife and incredible birds, I will definitely add this destination to my clients' Kenya safari itineraries.
An early morning start for our long drive ahead for the next Kenyan safari destination – Lake Naivasha, a birder's paradise. We arrived before dark and enjoyed sharing the grounds with some beautiful waterbuck and zebra gently meandering around quite happily amongst the humans.
We also had time for another memorable highlight… A visit to Hell's Gate National Park for a bicycle ride and walk along a lush gorge. Setting off with a local guide, I loved the freedom of the bicycle after all the driving and cycling beside vast herds of buffalo while watching the landscape become very hilly with large outcrops of boulders and mountains surrounding us.
Hell's Gate National Park, named by the Maasai people who were influenced by the area's volcanic activity, is a unique park located in Kenya. The park is known for its striking landscapes and features towering cliffs, gorges, rock towers, and geothermal steam vents. It offers a diverse range of wildlife, including buffalo, zebras, giraffes, and various bird species such as eagles and vultures. The park is also home to several geothermal power stations. Visitors can enjoy activities like hiking, rock climbing, and mountain biking in this dramatic and scenic environment.
The sound of the geothermal vents was quite something, and the walk down into the gorge was most welcome. There were many hot water springs with which I got to splash my face. A rejuvenating experience.
As it was getting late by the time our walk ended, we hired a motorbike to scoot us back to the main gate, which was highly recommended as a pretty authentic Kenyan adventure!
After dinner, I walked down to the fenced-off lake edge and caught a glimpse of a hippopotamus grazing a few meters away. Looking forward to our boat experience the following day.
Lake Naivasha, a freshwater gem nestled in the heart of the Great Rift Valley, is a place of serene beauty. The lake's surface, often dotted with floating islands of papyrus, reflects the surrounding acacia trees and volcanic hills. It's a haven for birdwatchers, with over 400 species recorded, including the iconic fish eagles and vibrant kingfishers. The lake's resident hippos, often seen grazing along the shores at dusk, add to the area's wild charm.
We loved the relaxed atmosphere, the gentle lapping of the water, and the feeling of being immersed in nature.
The morning saw us set off on a morning cruise after doing an on-site hotel inspection. The anticipated boat cruise did not disappoint when we met our local guide and hopped into a standard canoe with a motor.
Sitting on the peaceful water listening to the fish eagles call will be a treasured memory forever.
We were fortunate to witness pelicans fishing and fish eagles flying low, and although our guide threw fish for him to perform, it was still an incredible sight to see the magnificent predator grab its prey in front of our boat. Beautiful King Fishers and even my favourite jacanas were among the morning's top bird sightings.
We hopped off the boat halfway through the journey onto an island filled with waterbuck, antelope species, and zebra. Here, we were able to enjoy a stretch of the legs and a 30-minute walk through nature among the wildlife.
As the day began to warm, we returned to the vehicle and continued our safari adventure to Masai Mara, where we arrived quite late due to spending time on safari as we entered the Mara gates.
Our very first sighting was a black-backed jackal out and about, searching for prey and witnessing the warmth of the sunset behind the umbrella trees that make this setting so famous.
Finally, arriving at the quaint, warm Enkorok Camp, where we were greeted with ice-cold face cloths, delicately perfumed with eucalyptus to wipe the dust off our faces and necks. A quick refresh and the most stunning starlit dinner with the rest of the camp.
We dined under the stars, sitting amongst boulders while the crew served the most diverse selection of Kenyan delicacies, a notable ladies' touch as the owner, our dear Joyce Mbote, is also the host of our beautiful Kenya safari experience!
After filling our bellies with a 3-course meal, a singing group of Maasai dressed in traditional shukas came to sing for us. They have such a calming lullaby, and all the kids in camp loved joining in and following in their humming footprints. After the songs, they began their trance-like jumping, and all the kids joined in, too – a very festive evening. Once the Maasai finished their show, the camp staff came out to sing the famous Jambo song and welcomed us all in for the evening. We left shortly after this to get some shut-eye for our most exciting 3 am start to be on time for our balloon safari over the Masai Mara!
A crisp 3 am wake-up call, splash of the face, and warm cup of coffee saw us setting off before sunrise. Heading into the Mara was SO exciting as we came across a pride of lions on a kill with tiny baby cubs merrily playing around the adults who were tucking into their meal. A great sighting before arriving at the balloon launch zone and preparing for take-off.
Another one of those moments that is hard to explain in writing – After signing our names in and meeting our Chief Pilot, Ismail, who instilled an instant calmness as he reassured us of his experience with hot-air balloons over the years, we waited and watched as the balloon was inflated. This took quite some time as the sun started showing colourful signs in the morning sky. Finally, it was time to climb into our basket, which seated 16 of us in 4 groups of 4.
Before we knew it, we were drifting upwards with the force of the fire, the size of our enormous balloon, and the gentle breeze. We were given the green light to stand and peek out over the horizon at the sprawling mass of the Masai Mara and Talek River by our side. We were all in awe of it all while the chief pilot tugged on the flames and kept us afloat, often dipping down to view wildlife up closer and then lifting us straight back up again. A hot-air balloon ride over Masai Mara is an absolute must-do and a once-in-a-lifetime experience I will never forget.
We caught up with the pride of lions, too, and floated directly above them, watching many hyenas running towards the smell of food in the air. A top highlight from start to finish, which ended with a gentle landing and sumptuous bush breakfast not far from the pride of lions! Thankfully, we'd seen what a great meal they just had!
On our last day in Masai Mara, being a work trip, we filled the day with lodge site inspections, getting a glimpse of a few of the gorgeous camps on offer along the Talek River, where migratory wildebeest cross during the famous great migration that takes place between July and September. I can now speak from experience when offering options for lodging in the Mara; they are all exquisite, and location certainly is key.
The Masai Mara, synonymous with stunning landscapes and abundant wildlife, truly lived up to its reputation. As we entered, we were captivated by golden grasslands dotted with acacia trees and the symphony of nature around us. The wildlife density was remarkable, with lions, elephants, giraffes, and zebras everywhere we looked. The Mara River, vital to the ecosystem, was alive with hippos and crocodiles. In this iconic reserve, time slowed down, dictated by the rhythm of the wild.
A long drive day to Lake Nakuru today, so we set off with packed breakfasts and hit the road. We will always fondly remember our colourful drives through Kenya, with the village markets all so quirky and full of energy.
We passed many motorcycles carrying passengers or livestock as well as other items such as milk barrels, construction poles, and hessian sacks filled with items, more often than not, bigger than the motorbike and driver themselves!
Arriving at Lake Nakuru, we were met by the welcoming team from Kenya Wildlife Services, who, to our surprise, offered a presentation on the park and the efforts made by the wildlife services. It was very kind of them to share such insight; our only regret was how tired we all were, as we would have prepared better for it!
After sharing our deepest gratitude with the staff, we headed out into the wild of Nakuru where we saw many buffalo and excellent bird life on the lake – Groups of pelicans hunting together, which we had never witnessed before, and other exquisite water birds.
Finally, we arrived at the Sarova Lion Hill, perched high up over the lake, with wonderful views and a warm ambience. We enjoyed a hearty 3-course buffet meal and an early night in preparation for an early exploration of Lake Nakuru's birds and then a long drive to Samburu.
Lake Nakuru is a captivating soda lake in a national park, renowned for its flocks of flamingos that create a pink spectacle. The surrounding grasslands and acacia woodlands are home to wildlife like rhinos, lions, and leopards. With its varied landscapes, from rocky cliffs to lush forests, the park offers breathtaking views and an abundance of birdlife. It's a true showcase of nature's beauty.
Our morning safari with the birds was very serene and calming; sitting amongst them and watching them start the day on the water's edge was such a joy. With a long drive ahead, we set off and arrived in Samburu in time for sunset.
What we noticed immediately was the change in landscape, crossing the equator and the beautiful rolling hills surrounding us, taking on the profile shapes of faces and people lying down, adding a relaxing feel to the safari experience, tinged in hues of blues but a haze of heat at the same time.
The wildlife changed too, and we were on a mission to find the endemic 'Special Five,' the Grevy's zebra, oryx, Somali ostrich, gerenuk, and Reticulated giraffe. By the end of the first evening, we had spotted the very dainty-legged, long-necked gerenuk and a reticulated giraffe, plus the Somali ostrich in the distance, so we looked forward to seeing the completed list during the course of our stay. Arriving too late to have a swim, we were pleased to note that due to the heat of the day, we would be back at camp the following day to take full advantage of the pool, which is a most welcome reprieve.
So after dinner, we set off to try to sleep with the fans, which were going as fast as they possibly could. The views from our balconies in the morning were outstanding, and Samburu, heat, and all had already made it to our top game reserve in Kenya. Purely down to the beautiful landscapes and serenity of it all, not too many other vehicles to share the wildlife spectacles with us either.
After an early morning game drive, finally sighting all of the special five, plus an impressive amount of birds, including another of my favourites, the lilac-breasted roller, we enjoyed our cool-off swim and catching up with some work back at camp before the evening drive. On our evening drive, we caught a whiff of a pride of lions but got pleasantly stuck with a large herd of elephants.
It was hard to remove ourselves as we sat amongst them, watching them eat while the sun sank behind the sleeping mountains. With binoculars, we made out that the lions were too far away to get to this evening, so we planned an early morning trip to their spot at first light.
Samburu, with its rugged beauty and unique wildlife, contrasts sharply with the lush plains of the Mara. This arid landscape, filled with acacia trees and rocky outcrops, is home to animals found only in Kenya. The Ewaso Ng'iro River attracts abundant wildlife, while the air is fragrant with wild sage and filled with birdsong. We cherished the remoteness, sense of adventure, and the chance to see the 'Samburu Special Five.' Each day ended beautifully with fiery sunsets painting the sky.
At first light, we set off on the hunt for the lions, passing more gerenuk, Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, and so much more along the way.
Our lion encounter was definitely way up there, mainly because we really worked hard for it! We caught wind of their lair when we sighted two Landcruisers in the distance. Jimmy, our guide, could not reach them on the radio, which was a first, so we continued to the only bridge crossing at least 30 minutes away, but not without stopping to take photos of all sorts of beautiful wildlife-filled scenes and settings.
Finally, we found the bridge, crossed over, and came across the vehicles that confirmed the lions were not too far away. And so, we high-tailed it to their spot only to find they had already moved, which resulted in my very first, quite exciting, off-road bush bashing (or bundu bashing) safari experience right over shrubs, small trees, and in between thorn bushes….
We stopped to listen and heard the grunts of lions to our 'one o'clock,' so we continued the bashing until all of a sudden, there they were, lying right before us – Two young females and within minutes, they were joined by a slightly older female who walked out of the bushes and nudged each one nose to nose. It was the most intimate experience amongst the lions I have ever shared. But that wasn't all….
The next thing we witnessed, an even younger cub coming out from a deep bush, and shortly after, the tiniest, cutest cub popped out too and walked up playfully to the two elders. It was heartwarming and wonderful to witness it all unfold before us.
Next, we heard the Big Daddy calling for his pride, which was heart-stopping! We heard him calling and calling until he found the females, but there was not just one male… there were two young but beautiful full-maned lions, kings of the jungle, who sauntered out to relax with the others – I think this was my top wildlife experience to date! Also, our very last stop today is the Ol Pejeta, famous for black rhino conservation, although we could not spot them naturally while on our drive.
We did get an opportunity to meet Baraka, a black rhino in captivity, rescued after becoming blinded and cared for by the rangers in Ol Pejeta. The reserve is also home to a Jane Goodall Chimpanzee Sanctuary.
The final camp for our incredible Kenya Safari was the perfect way to end our trip – A stunning property called the Maisha Sweetwaters Camp. Sweetwaters is a region around Ol Pejeta with sweeping views and Mount Kenya as a backdrop on a clear day.
The temperatures also cooled down for us, which was a welcome reprieve, and we enjoyed the last supper together while reminiscing over the last 12 days of our Kenya safari and how magical it had all been.
Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya is dedicated to conservation. Its vast plains, with acacia trees and waterholes, are a sanctuary for diverse wildlife, while their focus is on protecting endangered species like black rhinos.
Sweetwaters, within Ol Pejeta, offers stunning views of Mount Kenya and tranquil landscapes, perfect for reflecting on our journey and appreciating Kenya’s beauty.
If you're willing to miss the wildebeest migration on your Kenya safari, I recommend a fly-in safari to Amboseli in the south. This way, you can add something fun and different to the mix, followed by a visit to Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru for the waterbirds. Then, I suggest driving to Samburu and Meru National Park before ending your safari adventure in Nairobi.
This 12-day Kenya Wildlife Safari itinerary features far fewer crowds and immense wildlife, with unforgettable landscapes providing a photographer's dream backdrop for each picture.
Know to expect in Kenya? Watch Kenya Safari Guide for Beginners (2025): Expert Planning Tips on YouTube.
Born in Zimbabwe and raised in South Africa (Cape Town, Johannesburg, and the Garden Route), Claire's connection to Africa runs deep. A formative year in Europe solidified her desire to share its magic. "I realized then how much I wanted others to experience Africa's unique spirit," she explains. This dedication is the cornerstone of her work at African Budget Safaris.
With years of experience exploring Africa's diverse landscapes, Claire brings unparalleled insight to every safari adventure. Her meticulous attention to detail, from selecting authentic accommodations to arranging reliable transportation, ensures a seamless and deeply personal travel experience.
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